June 1, 2023


All About Women

Find out how to Keep at an Agriturismo in Italy

16 min read

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Staying at an agriturismo is one thing that I prioritize on nearly each journey I take to Italy. There’s nothing like enjoyable within the Italian countryside, eating on outstandingly recent produce, and residing la dolce vita — removed from the cities.

Agriturismi (the plural of agriturismo) are Italian farms that double as mattress and breakfasts. They’re present in each a part of the nation, and so they’re a massively widespread method for Italians to journey.

Italian farm holidays have caught on with overseas vacationers, and Barbara Kingsolver wrote about visiting agriturismi in Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, her bestselling memoir about consuming solely native meals for one 12 months.

So take it from me, your Italy-obsessed buddy — you’ll love staying at an agriturismo. It’s simply the correct quantity of Italy off the crushed path. The truth is, your agriturismo keep may find yourself being the spotlight of your journey to Italy!

However I do know it’d sound a bit difficult. How do you even e-book one in every of these locations? How are you going to inform it’s a very good one?

Learn on for discover the agriturismo that’s good for you.

Views over an agriturismo in Sicily -- a farm building in the foreground and terraced farmland, underneath a purple sunset.
View from Agriturismo La Rocca delle Rose close to Mount Etna in Sicily.

What’s an agriturismo?

An agriturismo is a farmstay in Italy — a small, independently owned working farm the place vacationers can keep in a single day.

Within the interval of industrialization post-World Struggle II, many farmers in Italy had been packing up and transferring to the cities to make ends meet. Farms had been falling into disrepair, and the Italian authorities quickly realized this was placing their beloved meals traditions in danger.

In 1985, Italian lawmakers handed laws making a authorized definition of the phrase agriturismo and offering funds for farm estates who had been prepared to transform them into lodging. And it labored like a dream. Quickly these farmers grew to become innkeepers, introducing guests to rural Italian life.

Right now, Italian agriturismi are a beloved custom — and so they’re extremely numerous. Yow will discover agriturismi in any respect worth factors, from very low-cost and easy guesthouses that appear to be you’re staying in a bare-bones attic to five-star luxurious properties with spa remedies and a concierge.

Often, although, most of them are small farms specializing in agriculture. (It is a massive distinction from American farms, which are typically a lot bigger and centered on livestock. More than likely the livestock you’ll see in Italy might be canines and cats!) I discover most agriturismi to be splendidly unpretentious.

Generally they could be a bit greater and extra upscale — I’ve stayed at two agriturismi that had been truly wine resorts: Isola del Sasso in Sasso Marconi, Emilia-Romagna, and Agriturismo Baglio Donnafranca in Marsala, Sicily. They didn’t have as a lot of a household really feel, however that they had fabulous native meals and wine.

And when you may image a Tuscan farmhouse set amongst olive groves, you will discover agriturismi in each nook of Italy. Yow will discover agriturismi with terraced vineyards tucked into the mountainous areas like Valle d’Aosta, simply as you may keep at an agriturismo a brief stroll from the sandy seashores of Basilicata. I’ve even stayed at a number of agriturismi within the shadow of volcanoes!

Simply know that they generally go by completely different names in several areas — an agriturismo is usually referred to as a masseria in Puglia, a poggio in Tuscany, or a baglio in Sicily.

Some agriturismi supply actions — horseback driving, bike leases, cooking lessons — however the majority of them are easy locations offering a calming place to remain and glorious meals.

A pink house set on a big lawn, two blue lounge chairs in front of it.
Bioagriturismo Nure in Alghero, Sardinia, a calming rural getaway a 15-minute drive from town.

Why keep at an agriturismo?

Anytime I’m staying in Italy for every week or longer, I attempt to e-book an agriturismo for at the very least just a few nights. Right here’s what I take pleasure in about visiting them:

A break from Italy’s frenetic cities. So many individuals journey to Italy and solely go to cities — Milan, Venice, Florence, Rome, Naples, and so they’re off once more. Rural life is so completely different — it’s calm, it’s peaceable, and the air smells unbelievable.

Excellent farm-to-table delicacies. Agriturismi often serve dinner and breakfast comprised of native produce: their very own and and their neighbors’. These eggs had been most likely laid this morning, that olive oil was harvested from these olive bushes, and that limoncello has been fermenting on a pantry shelf for months!

Supporting a small, unbiased enterprise. Wouldn’t you fairly put cash into a neighborhood household’s pocket than make some CEO richer? That’s what you do at an agriturismo.

Worth for cash. You will get an evening’s keep plus a unbelievable dinner and breakfast, typically for the same worth for only a resort in one of many massive cities. Facilities like swimming swimming pools are sometimes a part of the keep.

No worries about ingesting and driving. While you’re consuming on the place the place you’re sleeping, you may bask in all of the home made wines and digestivi with out having to have a delegated driver.

Private connections. When staying at an agriturismo, you may typically get to know the homeowners a bit, which is good. (Although that often depends upon how effectively you may talk!)

Nice for households with youngsters. Agriturismi cater particularly effectively to households — they’ll put further beds in your room and let the children play exterior when you take pleasure in your multi-course feast. Some are particularly kid-oriented with playgrounds.

Souvenirs. You may nearly all the time purchase a few of their very own merchandise to take dwelling with you — the agriturismo’s personal olive oil, wine, and digestivi.

A terrace covered with a trellis in Stromboli, Italy.
The enjoyable terrace at Agriturismo Solemare in Stromboli.

Find out how to Ebook a Keep at an Agriturismo

Can you discover agriturismi on common resort reserving websites? Sure! I often discover mine on Booking.com. When looking out on Reserving, you may tick the field “Farm Keep” however it doesn’t all the time line up completely — generally agriturismi might be labeled as “mattress and breakfast” as an alternative.

I additionally Google a LOT greater than normal. That is one of the simplest ways to seek out reserving platform-averse agriturismi — and the way I discovered Agriturismo Sardo in Santa Teresa Gallura, Sardinia, that served the normal roast suckling pig that Charlie needed to attempt.

Agriturismo.it is dwelling to the best choice of agriturismi in Italy. It is a nice useful resource for determining the wonderful particulars of the place the place you’re staying. It’s simple to section by the form of surroundings and the facilities.

You may also discover agriturismi on Airbnb. Be sure you tick the field “Farm Keep” and watch out concerning the further charges that get added.

Both method, I all the time make sure that I have a look at the agriturismo’s web site earlier than reserving. That will provide you with as a lot data as they’ve (even when it’s solely in Italian!).

A chef teaching a few women how to cut sheets of pasta into ravioli.
Making ravioli with Stefano on a G Adventures journey at Poggio delle Rose in Chianciano Terme, Tuscany.

Ebook a Group Tour to an Agriturismo

G Adventures gives just a few “Native Residing” excursions in Italy the place you keep at an agriturismo for every week and discover the native area. They provide actions like cooking lessons, hikes, and wine tastings.

Again in 2013 I went on a media journey for his or her Southern Tuscany tour, which I loved immensely however they not supply.

Right now G Adventures is providing Native Residing excursions in San Gimignano in Tuscany, and on the Amalfi Coast and in Sorrento, each close to Naples in Campania.

A pool surrounded by sun chairs and tall cypress trees in the Italian countryside
What a view from the pool at Agriturismo la Selva close to Siena in Tuscany! (Charlie stayed right here and beloved it.)

Find out how to Select the Proper Agriturismo

Selecting an Italian agriturismo is completely different from selecting a resort or guesthouse due to the significance of meals. I analysis agriturismi by beginning with what they do for meals, then fanning outward.

Begin with meals. Does this agriturismo serve meals? Does it serve meals for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, or simply a few of the meals? Does it serve meals just some nights of the week and never others? Are there half board and full board choices obtainable? Is dinner served at a sure time?

After ensuring they serve dinner, I learn a LOT of opinions on Google, images of the meals and what individuals need to say. (Tip: Italians are typically harsh of their opinions. If a spot charges 4.2 or higher, that’s most likely a terrific place.)

Subsequent, check out the lodging. Are you in a predominant constructing, or separate? Do you could have your personal non-public toilet? What sort of facilities are on-site? Suppose swimming pool, out of doors lounge areas, actions, and so on.

Be sure you ask about air-con for those who’re visiting in the summertime, and heating for those who’re visiting Southern Italy within the winter. I practically froze at an agriturismo in Sicily throughout a chilly spell in February till they offered us with an area heater and further blankets!

Subsequent, check out funds. How do they take funds? Will you be capable of pay with a bank card, or do they require a financial institution switch in your deposit? Do they solely take money?

(Should you’re a frequent traveler, I like to recommend getting an account with Wise, which supplies you financial institution accounts in a number of currencies and makes worldwide transfers simple.)

Lastly: what’s the placement like? How do you get there? How far are they from the airport? Will you be arriving after darkish? Should you’re not driving, will you want a pickup? What’s going to you be capable of go to inside a 90-minute drive?

Kate standing in an onion field in a casual burgundy dress, holding up an onion and grinning with triumph.
Generally you may choose the greens for those who’d like! (Technically not an agriturismo, however an onion farm in Tropea, Calabria.)

Agriturismo Meals

For me, a very powerful facet of staying at an agriturismo is the meals. I all the time attempt to keep at an agriturismo that serves dinner.

Most agriturismi served a set menu for the day. (That is one purpose why it’s good to contact them forward of time if in case you have dietary restrictions.)

Often an agriturismo meal begins with appetizers like a tagliere (plate of meat and cheese) with olives or bread, adopted by the primo piatto (pasta or risotto course), secondo piatto (meat or fish predominant course) served with contorni (vegetable aspect dishes), adopted by dolce (dessert), caffe for those who’d like, and digestivi (digestive liqueurs). Wine and water are served all through.

In fact, each agriturismo is somewhat bit completely different. Many present lodging however cater primarily to diners, like Agriturismo Il Cucchiaio di Legno in Orta San Giulio, Piemonte, and Isola del Sasso in Sasso Marconi, Emilia-Romagna.

After which there’s breakfast. Usually, I inform individuals to not get too enthusiastic about breakfast in Italy. As a lot as Italians care about meals, breakfast is fairly low-key. You’ll often have just a few common muffins and a crostata or two, some fruit and yogurt, possibly eggs. However some agriturismi make breakfast a bit extra memorable.

A plate covered with deli meats and cheese wedges next to small bowls with various different vegetables.
Most agriturismo meals begin with a plate of meats and cheese like this one at Agriturismo Sardo in Santa Teresa Gallura, Sardinia; the aspect dishes like beans, chickpeas, and pickled onions had been an surprising shock!
A plate with caponata (Sicilian dish with fried eggplant and vegetables in tomato sauce)
Caponata, an eggplant and vegetable stew and the last word Sicilian starter dish, at Agriturismo Baglio Donnafranca in Marsala, Sicily. It’s often vegetarian however they added octopus to theirs.
Two spoons topped with a pile of thinly sliced veal topped with tuna sauce and a caper berry.
Vitello tonnato, veal in tuna sauce, a basic Piemontese appetizer, at Agriturismo Il Cucchiaio di Legno in Orta San Giulio, Piemonte.
A ravioli and a handful of marinara-drenched pasta.
Do-it-yourself ravioli and pici pasta at Poggio delle Rose in Chianciano Terme, Tuscany.
A big bowl of spaghetti covered with marinara sauce.
Agriturismo Casa del Sole in Cupra Marittima, Le Marche, served us an infinite bowl of pasta for 2 — only one course of many!
A metal plate topped with roasted pork and roasted potatoes.
The roasted pork is the rationale we got here to Agriturismo Sardo in Santa Maria Gallura, Sardinia!
Three tiny cakes and semifreddos on a dessert plate.
A elaborate dessert sampler from Agriturismo Il Cucchiaio di Legno in Orta San Giulio, Piemonte.
Who wants dessert when you may have blood oranges proper off the bushes? Served at Agriturismo Villa Vittoria in Guardavalle, Calabria.
Blue and white placemat and yellow cutlery set out with fresh fruit, jams, and honey.
Agriturismo Solemare on the island of Stromboli within the Aeolian Islands served plenty of recent jams, fruits, and honey produced on their property!
A breakfast spread with bread, cheese, meat, lots of fresh fruit, yogurt, and coffee.
A beautiful breakfast unfold at Bioagriturismo Nure in Alghero, Sardinia.

Agriturismo Lodging

Italian lodging are typically on the straightforward aspect, and that goes for agriturismi as effectively. They provide you what you want, and sometimes not rather more than that.

However that’s wonderful! You’ll have the whole lot you want.

One massive tip — pillows in Italy are typically very flat. These days, each time I journey to Italy, I deliver a travel contour pillow (or full-sized pillow if we’re driving to Italy). It’s good to have. However now and again, an agriturismo surprises me with a pleasant puffy pillow!

Listed here are a few of the agriturismo rooms the place I’ve stayed:

A simple bedroom with a wrought-iron bed with white linens, topped with towels of three sizes.
My room at Agriturismo Villa Vittoria in Guardavalle, Calabria. (Discover the fluffy pillows!)
A simple room with a wrought-iron bed, two bedside tables and two basic wooden chairs surrounding it.
My room at Bioagriturismo Nure in Alghero, Sardinia.
A bed in an orange room covered with bright pink and orange striped sheets.
Loopy sheets at Agriturismo Solemare in Stromboli!

What to Do at an Agriturismo

What do you do at an agriturismo, anyway? Actually, it’s utterly as much as you.

Some agriturismi have actions which you could e-book upfront, like wine tasting, meals tasting, or horseback driving. Some have bicycles or scooters which you could hire to discover the realm.

Generally an agriturismi will welcome you to assist out within the vegetable backyard for those who’d like.

And you may simply hang around, spending time within the pool or studying a e-book exterior. There’s nothing improper with that — that’s an enormous purpose why individuals keep at agriturismi! For the peace and quiet.

Right here are some things I’ve carried out whereas staying at an agriturismo:

People hanging out on the rocky coastline in the blue water of Aci Trezza, Sicily
Whereas staying at Agriturismo la Rocca delle Rose in Zafferana Etnea, Sicily, I visited the seaside city of Aci Trezza on their suggestion, and beloved our native seashore day!
People sitting at an outdoor restaurant in Pienza, Italy.
Whereas staying at Poggio delle Rose in Chianciano Terme, Tuscany, I visited the romantic city of Pienza — my new favourite city in Tuscany!
The front of a boat pointed out over a calm blue-green harbor surrounded by cliffs and another sailboat.
Whereas staying at Bioagriturismo Nure in Alghero, Sardinia, I went on a FANTASTIC sailing trip that I found on Airbnb Experiences and was one of many highlights of my 12 months.
People walking down a hiking path between two hills, the ocean in a distance.
Whereas staying at Agriturismo Solemare in Stromboli, the Aeolian Islands, I truly hiked up (and down, and up, and down) Stromboli’s lively volcano!

Determine Out Transportation

Most often, you’ll have to have a automobile to go to an agriturismo correctly. These farmstays are situated in rural areas, often removed from any type of public transportation.

However you shouldn’t let that maintain you again! Driving in Italy isn’t as scary as many individuals assume. It’s not such as you’ll be driving someplace like Naples, the place drivers refuse to comply with the legal guidelines of physics — that is calm, lovely, rural driving.

Understand that whereas roads are typically quiet in rural Italy, they may also be small. Many occasions in southern Italy particularly, I’ve ended up on a one-way grime street the place you want to be tremendous cautious when squeezing by different automobiles!

Google Maps doesn’t all the time provide the greatest route, so be sure you double-check together with your agriturismo.

And right here’s one thing vacationers typically overlook — you don’t have to hire a automobile in your whole Italy journey, simply a part of it! Say you’re doing the everyday Rome-Florence-Venice itinerary. Spend just a few days in Rome, take the prepare to Florence, spend just a few days in Florence, hire a automobile for just a few days and drive across the Tuscan countryside whereas staying at an agriturismo and having fun with the agricultural way of life, return your automobile, then take the prepare to Venice.

I feel it is a nice thought as a result of you may hold the driving restricted to the beautiful rolling hills of Tuscany — and keep away from driving in cities, which is all the time an enormous ache (parking is the WORST).

Are you able to keep at an agriturismo for those who don’t have a automobile? It IS potential — however often a little bit of a problem. Sometimes, you’ll discover an agriturismo near public transportation, however needless to say in rural areas, that bus may solely run as soon as each three hours.

Generally agriturismi supply pickups from native prepare stations; at different occasions, you may take a taxi (Uber is obtainable in lots of Italian cities however uncommon in rural areas).

Should you select to remain at an agriturismo with no automobile, double-check when the agriturismo serves meals. If you wish to spend a day lounging on the property, double-check that they serve lunch, or else you’ll be working on fumes till dinner!

A vineyard filled with yellow flowers, stone buildings in the distance.
I beloved the surroundings at Agriturismo Baglio Donnafranca in Marsala, Sicily.

Agriturismo Journey Ideas

Listed here are a few of my prime ideas for staying at an agriturismo in Italy:

Analysis the realm earlier than you go and put collectively an inventory of priorities to go to earlier than you arrive. And needless to say many Italian areas are HUGE. Tuscany is huge, for instance, and it takes hours to drive from one finish of the area to a different. As an alternative, concentrate on a smaller a part of Tuscany, nearer to your agriturismo.

And on my newest journey to Sicily, it felt like we drove over the entire island — however we had been simply within the westernmost province of Trapani, a tiny chunk of Sicily itself! And there have been tons of cool small cities to go to there!

Ask the agriturismo employees for suggestions. They know the realm higher than anyplace else! Once I stayed at Agriturismo La Rocca delle Rose close to Mount Etna in Sicily, they advised we spend a seashore day at Aci Trezza, which grew to become one of many highlights of our journey.

Agriturismi people are educated about cities price visiting, climbing routes, issues to do, good close by eating places (particularly if the agriturismo doesn’t serve lunch), and locations you gained’t discover in any weblog or guidebook.

Don’t count on nice telephone sign or wifi. Usually agriturismi are situated in telephone sign useless zones with a single router offering wifi in frequent areas solely. Many individuals take this as an excuse to chill out.

Should you require wifi for work or FaceTime calls dwelling to your loved ones, be sure to speak to the agriturismo upfront to confirm it’s sufficient in your wants.

Know that there could also be a language barrier. Today, there’s often at the very least one particular person on the agriturismo who speaks a little bit of English (typically, one partner speaks nice English and the opposite speaks nearly no English!), however in additional distant locations, you might wrestle.

One problem for me was Agriturismo Sardo in Santa Teresa Gallura, Sardinia. At first I emailed them, however they stopped answering emails, so I attempted calling, no person spoke English, my damaged Italian was terrible, and I needed to enlist an Italian-speaking buddy to name them for me! (The meals was SO price it, although.)

Be prepared for hiccups. After we arrived at one agriturismo, no person was there to greet us! We ended up hanging out for an hour on the out of doors patio and patting their canines and cats till somebody got here dwelling to allow us to in. At one other agriturismo, we had a plumbing problem, which isn’t unusual within the Italian countryside.

Simply be able to waft.

When you’ve got dietary restrictions, let the agriturismo know upfront. I like to recommend telling them proper once you e-book and reminding them once more shortly earlier than you arrive. Italians are glad to accommodate individuals with meals allergy symptoms.

In case your dietary restrictions are significantly difficult, you may need to e mail them upfront to debate if they’ll work together with your wants.

Should you’re a vegetarian or vegan, you’ll have a better time in Puglia or Sicily, two areas which have intensive plant-based choices (although admittedly it’s a lot simpler to seek out vegetarian dishes than vegan dishes).

And know that Italians know take care of gluten-free eating. All youngsters in Italy are examined for celiac illness, so Italians are very aware of what it entails. One agriturismo in Umbria served my celiac buddy Jodi a bowl of sliced cherry tomatoes topped within the pasta sauce!

Contemplate your baggage allowance and souvenirs. Agriturismi typically promote their very own native merchandise: digestivi, olive oil, sauces, wines, and different liquids. If you wish to deliver them dwelling, you’ll have to pay for checked baggage for the flight dwelling.

A pink building in Italy with a lantern, a big wooden door, surrounded by overgrown plants.
A constructing at Agriturismo La Rocca delle Rose in Zafferana Etnea, Sicily.

Agriturismi I Advocate

I’ve listed a number of agriturismi I’ve stayed at on this publish, and I’d be glad to remain at any of them once more.

However listed below are some that I feel are further particular:

Agriturismo Sardo in Santa Teresa Gallura, Sardinia — You’ll need to name or e mail them immediately, and there’s a language barrier, however they are going to serve you the largest, most insane multi-course Sardinian feast you’ve ever had. I’m speaking THREE primi dishes and a roasted pig.

Agriturismo La Rocca delle Rose in Zafferana Etnea, Sicily — An exquisite family-run agriturismo within the shade of Mount Etna — an ideal location for exploring Japanese Sicily. Stunning grounds, a pleasant pool, scrumptious meals, and a welcoming household who will enable you to really feel at dwelling.

Poggio delle Rose in Chianciano Terme, Tuscany — Fantastic employees, unbelievable meals, a view you’ll always remember, and a very good location for visiting Southern Tuscany and even a little bit of Umbria for those who’d like, although not in a tourism-overwhelmed city.

Agriturismo Il Cucchiaio di Legno in Orta San Giulio, Piemonte — I’m together with this as a result of that is one in every of my favourite eating places IN THE WORLD. Nonetheless, their lodging leaves a bit to be desired and is true subsequent to the prepare tracks (super-loud). Undoubtedly make a dinner reservation forward of time, get the well-priced tasting menu, and pattern the Barolo.

That stated, needless to say you want to discover the agriturismo that works greatest for YOU. Your character, your journey wants, the meals you’re wanting ahead to consuming.

The excellent news is that there are such a lot of agriturismi throughout Italy, you gained’t have bother discovering the right one for you.

Planning a Journey to Italy:

Cool Locations in Northern Italy:

Cool Locations in Southern Italy:

Have you ever been to an agriturismo? What ideas do you could have?

How to Stay at an Agriturismo in Italy

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